Pugh's catwalk presentation took place on Saturday night at Brewer Street Car Park – the new venue for London Fashion Week, located in the city's Soho district. The designer previously showed his collections in Paris, but returned to London with a patriotic range last season.
His Spring Summer 2016 collection pays homage to Soho, which was once renowned as a hub of creativity – and seedy nightlife – but is now under threat from commercial development.
"The idea of showing in Soho on a Saturday night was intoxicating," said Pugh. "I remember arriving here for the first time, coming down to study at Central Saint Martins – it was like falling down the rabbit hole."
"There were such feelings of euphoria, of danger and of possibility. I guess that's what this collection is about. A place where you feel like anything can happen."
The models wore nude stockings over their faces, with spiky red, black and white wigs sat far back to exaggerate the forehead.
The colour palette for the collection was restricted to red, white, black and copper.
Dramatic make-up was painted onto the sheer material, and some wore star-shaped sunglasses over the top.
Pennies scattered on either side of the runway were also used as paillettes on a variety of garments, creating shimmering sleeves, dresses and bodices.
Large red sequins were applied in a similar way, including on a romper with a stiff semi-circular collar that stood vertically behind the head.
Monochrome chequerboard patterns typical of Pugh's work, particularly his seminal Spring Summer 2007 collection, were distorted into diagonal grids and chevrons that covered coats, dresses and a suit.
The designer elbowed in his signature oversized collar style – also seen last season – which loosely folds to create larger jacket lapels.
Fur coats and red and white striped flares added to the disco vibe – as did the show's soundtrack.
All of these elements were combined to create an impact connected to Soho in some way.
"I kept going back to footage of Francis Bacon describing how he would paint on the untreated side of the canvas, so that each stroke would remain immediate and irrevocable," said Pugh.
"There was that, and Merry Clayton's solo from the Rolling Stones' Gimme Shelter. The way she sings with such abandon – the urgency – it made me think about the spirit of Soho."
London Fashion Week's Spring Summer 2016 shows are running from 18 to 22 September 2015.
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